Monday, May 5, 2008

Zambia

Back from a sojourn in Zambia. We had originally planned to rent a house-boat on Lake Kariba but was persuaded by a Zambian acquaintance that we would enjoy our time more in the bush. We flew over Lake Kariba on our way and some of us were perhaps thinking about Battlefield Earth.
The drive from the Lusaka International Airport to the entrance of the Kafue National Park was well paved and pleasant. We managed the paved road well in our Ford pick-up truck.However, our troubles started at the Hook bridge gate, where we began the last 60km of our jouney. The road was unpaved and as we were one of the first visitors of the season, the road was in terrible condition after the heavy rain months.
After crawling on the road for about half hour, we got a flat tire.
While changing the tire, the sun set and everything was pitch dark, except for some light from early stars. We looked around nervously for movements in the tall grass. It was hard not to think of the book, Death in the Long Grass. (Good thing I havn't read it yet.)
After anther 4 hours crawling in the dark, we reached a bridge that was partially demolished. The water was rather deep and we didn't want to drawn with the pick-up truck while trying our luck, crossing the river. We could hear rustling in the grass and occasional dark figures in the bush. We turned around to make the track back towards the Hook bridge gate when we ran into a 4x4 transporting some visitors to our lodge!
The safari guide and his aide from the 4x4 suggested that they will piggy back the ladies across the river to the 4x4 (which made it through the river with some difficulty -- half the truck was immersed under water!). However, while we were in the middle of the river, the guys from the 4x4 yelled that they saw lions! We were closer to our pick-up truck still so we all ran back to the truck and jumped in.
Now we had three tourists stuck alone on the 4x4 across the river near lions and the ladies and the safari guides all jammed into a small pick-up truck on the opposite bank. We decided that we had no option but to cross the river in our truck.
After much adventure, we all arrived safely at the lodge. It was very late but the staff came out to greet us with smiles and treated us to a delicious meal.
Sleep came very easily after that.
We woke up next day to a stunning view of the Kafue River.
Even after all the driving the night before, we were unfazed & piled into a 4x4 for a drive near the river. There were many antelopes and monkeys although the animals that made the most noise were the ones we didn't see because they were under water: hippos!
After being assured (many times) that all the hippos and crocs are in the river during the day, the ladies piled out of the vehicle for a group picture.
We saw patched of grass that have been burnt due to spontaneous bush fire.
Peter, our helpful friend at the lodge, demonstrated how they control the bush fire with what looks like brooms.
We then piled into a banana boat for to catch the sunset on the river.
The sunset was spectacular.
As the sky darkened, the river became a perfectly reflecting mirror and we felt like we were floating between two skies.
Even though we occasionally saw people fishing on the riverbanks and on boats, mostly we had the river to ourselves - and the numerous hippos & crocs, of course. We were happy but a bit anxious since some of the crocs were 4 meters long and definitely longer and possibly bigger than our boat.
We left the bush behind for a quick tour of Lusaka before we left Zambia. We stopped to buy Shake-Shake, a local brew, from street vendors.
We didn't see much other local brew though we saw plenty of sugar cane -- making rum could be a niche?
We never got to eat kapenta fish which usually come from farms near Lake Kariba. However, we got to taste lots of bream.
Bob Marley was extremely popular in the city (many signs alluding to his birthday, concerts in tribute to Bob Marley, etc.)
We then met up with couple of friends in the city. This place was called Green Garden on Lagos Street near Manda Hill.
We went by a few curious centers also. This one was a craft village and we were told that the rondavels were salvaged during the time many were knocked down to make room for new western style buildings.
This is another craft market called The Arcade. More modern in a car park.
All in all a great trip and it was wonderful seeing some old friends.

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